Wednesday 30 July 2014


Several years ago Helen and I went to St Kilda. It has long been an ambition to see this haunting and remote island.  Its history of isolation had fascinated us. For many years the island had no regular communication with the Scottish mainland. The archipelago lies 40 miles west of the nearest inhabited island, North Uist, which itself is regarded by mainlanders as a remote off-shore community.

St Kilda had a tragic history. The inhabitants, and there were barely 100, eked out a frugal life living off fish and sea birds. The population was limited by a mysteriously high rate of infant mortality. In 1930 it was decided that for humans at least life on St Kilda was no longer sustainable and the island was evacuated.

Rather than travel in the authentic old-fashioned way, in an open boat under sail, we opted for a week’s holiday on the Hebridean Princess. Sheer extravagance! This bespoke cruise ship, sometimes hired out to the Queen now that she no longer has her own yacht, travels around the islands of Britain and is unmatched as a way to see Britain’s remote beauty in total comfort and style.

We chose a trip that promised a day on St Kilda. We were warned that the Atlantic conditions often prevented passengers landing, but we took the chance. We sailed through the night and when the day dawned it was one of perfect tranquillity. St Kilda was ahead of us bathed in sunshine.

We were able to land and had several hours exploring the street of houses the islanders had abandoned, climbing up the hill behind them to the steep cliffs beyond. We saw the feral sheep and the unique St Kilda wren. One of those days that truly sticks in the mind.

I was reminded of it yesterday when the Hebridean Princess paid a brief visit to Unst. I had heard she was coming and had followed her progress on the marine traffic website. A very useful resource for tracking ships around the world.

From the computer I could anticipate the moment she would appear at the mouth of Baltasound and sure enough, there she was. I drove round to the south site of Baltasound to see her approach the pier and took a photograph, with our house in the distance just above the bow. Fifteen minutes later I emailed the picture to our friends Edwin and Pamela, who we had first met on the Hebridean Princess on that trip to St Kilda.

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